St Mary’s Church, Ottery St Mary
In a small Devon town, St Mary’s looks like a cathedral that has shrunk in the wash. Its twin towers over the transepts, its long vaulted choir and its rich furnishings were the work of a fourteenth-century Bishop of Exeter, who copied his cathedral here. Inside is a medieval astronomical clock, a sumptuous fan-vaulted aisle and the tombs of the bishop’s family. The poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, whose father was vicar here, was born in the town.
Bishop Grandisson’s college
A church stood here long before: it was consecrated in 1260 by Walter Bronescombe, Bishop of Exeter. In 1335 Bishop John de Grandisson bought the manor of Ottery, and on 22 January 1338 he founded a college of forty members, priests, vicars, clerks and choristers, to sing the services in the church.
To house them, he rebuilt the church on the model of Exeter Cathedral, with its towers set over the transepts. The college was dissolved in 1545, and the church became the parish church of the town. It was restored by William Butterfield in 1849–50.
The visitor's cheat sheet
| Where | Paternoster Row, Ottery St Mary, Devon, EX11 1DP |
|---|---|
| Getting there | About 12 miles east of Exeter, off the A30; buses from Exeter; car parks in the town |
| Opening hours | Daily 9am–5.30pm, except during services |
| Admission | Free; donations welcome |
| How long | 45 minutes to an hour |
| Best time | A weekday, when the church is quiet |
| Dress code | No rule; respectful dress in a working church |
| Tours | Self-guided; guidebook in the church |
Hours and admission checked against the official site in October 2026. They change; the official site is always the last word.
A first. On 26 September 2015 Sarah Mullally, then Bishop of Crediton, ordained priests here: the first ordination in the Church of England to be led by a woman.
What to see, in the order you meet it
The nave
Inside, the vaulted roof is painted, and the nave leads to a long choir behind a screen, exactly as in a cathedral. The effect is of a much larger building than you expect from outside.
The Dorset Aisle
The north aisle was rebuilt in the early sixteenth century for Cecily Bonville, Marchioness of Dorset, and covered with a fan vault hung with carved pendants. It is one of the finest pieces of late Gothic work in the West Country.
The astronomical clock
In the south transept is the astronomical clock, one of the oldest in the country. Its painted dial shows the earth at the centre of the universe, with the sun and the moon moving round it.
The choir and the Grandisson tombs
In the choir are misericords of about 1350 and Grandisson’s eagle lectern. In the nave arcades lie the tombs of the bishop’s brother, Sir Otho de Grandisson, and his wife Beatrix.
Visiting
Free to visit
There is no admission charge. The church is usually open daily from 9am to 5.30pm, except during services.
The hotel link goes to Booking.com. This site earns nothing from it at present — it is here because it is the quickest way to check what is actually available.
Don't miss
- The transept towers Exeter Cathedral in miniature.
- The Dorset Aisle A fan vault with pendants.
- The astronomical clock The earth at the centre of the universe.
- The eagle lectern Given by Bishop Grandisson.
- The misericords Carved around 1350.
- Coleridge’s town A plaque to the poet in the churchyard wall.
Insider tips
Combine it with Exeter. See Exeter Cathedral first, then come here: once you have seen the original, the family likeness of the towers and the vaulted choir is unmistakable. If you can, come on the evening of 5 November, when the town holds its famous tar barrels.
Common questions
Does it cost anything to visit St Mary’s, Ottery St Mary?
No. The church is free to visit, though donations are welcome to help look after the building.
When is the church open?
It is usually open every day from 9am to 5.30pm, except during services and special events.
Why does it look like Exeter Cathedral?
Because it was rebuilt by John de Grandisson, Bishop of Exeter, who founded a college of priests here in 1338. He modelled the church on his cathedral, with towers over the transepts instead of a central tower, and a long vaulted choir for the college’s services.
How old is the astronomical clock?
It is thought to date from the fourteenth century, which would make it one of the oldest mechanical clocks in England. Its dial shows the earth at the centre, with the sun and moon circling round it.
How do you get to Ottery St Mary?
Ottery St Mary is about 12 miles east of Exeter, just off the A30. There is no railway station; buses run from Exeter. The church stands on the hill above the town centre.
Where to stay and eat nearby
The town has pubs, cafés and a few places to stay, and Exeter and the coast at Sidmouth are close by.
More English churches
- Exeter Cathedral — the model for Ottery
- Sherborne Abbey — the greatest fan vault in the West Country
- Wimborne Minster — with another astronomical clock
See all the cathedrals and churches worth visiting in England →